This is why it’s considered the best bang for your buck mod. Traktor pro 2 review. Goodhertz vst crack. No actual power changes, but there can be a huge difference in performance and race times after swapping gears. If you are plenty happy with the way your Mustang drives, there is absolutely no need to change the rear gears.
** Disclaimer - I have HPT, but I've only looked at files, I've not purchased credits or the cables to tune my own vehicle. I want to, I'm just not prepared to make the investment in everything, plus a laptop, and a wide-band. I hope you guys will help me out with your thoughts, I know there is a lot of knowledge here. **
I'm putting a 4.10 gear-set in my car tomorrow (mods in sig) and so I contacted a tuner about updating the speedo calibration for the 4.10 gears. They told me that I should strongly consider getting the car re-tuned, as the reduced load and increased acceleration speed of the engine with the new gear ratio can potentially introduce a lean condition.
This is a reputable tuner that I've had several personal friends deal with directly, with great success. However, I'm have a hard time swallowing this - I expected that I'd just need the ratio updated, not 90 minutes on the dyno, and the associated fees.
I did a lot of research today, mostly over on this forum. I did learn that it's common for a MAF tuned car to run lean in the lower gears where the acceleration rates are faster than in 4th gear where they are typically calibrated. My research tells me it apparently has to do with MAF filtering and a delay that's imposed there. I don't know enough about the tune in my car (bought it tuned already) to know if it's a Dynamic, straight MAF, or straight Speed Density tune - but I'd wager it's Dynamic.
I read in one thread that a user was 2% lean in third as compared to fourth, and even leaner in second. The difference between 3rd and 4th is 1.48 in overall ratio (M10 M6 car). My new final drive ratio is a change of 0.65 in overall ratio - about half what you'd see in the difference from 3rd to 4th - so by that the car would be maybe 1% of difference in fueling. Not undetectable, but maybe on the edge of the envelop in terms of overall influence. I certainly wouldn't think it would put me in any sort of dangerous territory.
To add some mud to the water - I added cutouts last fall. These are behind the rear axle, well after the high-flow cats, so I would think they are mostly just adding noise, and not changing much in the overall exhaust flow - but they may have some influence on the tune as well, which may increase the justification to hit the dyno again. They're always open - I should have just done muffler deletes but I wasn't sure if I'd like that much noise. I do!
I have a lot of respect for this tuner, they do a lot of high end work, I would hate to think they're just padding their pockets. I don't think that's the case, but I've just never heard anything like this about adjusting the a/f calibrations when making a rear-gear change. I'm interested to hear what you guys think.
I ask these questions according to what i read in
the LS1_Tuning_Info_1.40r.doc <if any one knows about this LS1 tuning document and how good it is i want to know? .
I’m near of beginning tuning the idle of my car (2000 LS1 M6 camaro) and I have some questions :
a- for adjusting IAC steps Vs. effective area :
1- are you sure that when the idle desired airflow is smaller than dynamic airflow you adjust the IAC steps Vs. effective area table to right?
OR
I adjust the table to the right when the dynamic airflow is smaller than idle desired airflow?
2- Can you state the reason why when one is smaller than the other I adjust the table to right?
3- how to adjust running airflow after I adjust the IAC steps Vs. effective area table to the right?
b- for tunning the IAC steps Vs. effective area and airflow :
1- when the idle desired airflow is more than the dynamic airflow I will increase the IAC steps by certain value according to the variance between IDAF (idle desired airflow) and DAF (dynamic airflow) and when DAF is more than IDAF I lower the IAC steps, is that correct?
2- how to increase/decrease the IAC steps? What table I have to go to to increase/decrease IAC steps? Maybe it would be the IAC steps Vs. effective area table? But how do I know where I have to adjust IAC steps?
Sorry if the message is long but I have to ask these questions to make sure I tune my car’s PCM right.
Thanks.
Abdullah